COLOUR Dense and deep, bright and lively crimson-red NOSE Rampant scents derived from kitchen (winery) and garden (vineyard) … A wine-loving forensic sniff or two, rather than an imagined spectrophotometric analysis reveals: • Venison carpaccio with a sweet balsamic reduction and freshly-pressed olive oil. Or, uncured pastrami? • A salsa verde type-emulsion with an emphasis on the parsley and extra virgin olive oil. Add tomato, omit lemon. • Enough of the savoury – wafts of sticky rice pudding, apricot pip, vanillin pod and coconut husk. • Subtle sweet and spiced sandalwood, ground cumin and wintergreen notes remind of an eighteen-month sabbatical in oak. Verified: 2017 Grange. PALATE Where to start?! An advancing wave of flavours, understated power and charm. The swell builds and a more persuasive wave follows … and then more, with each sip. In an attempt to unravel and articulate this ‘ingestion’ … The flavours: Laden with shiraz fruits from the Barossa to the North and McLaren to the South - ‘maritime’ and ‘continental’ climatic/varietal diversity. Red and black liquorice, soy and malt, burnt vanilla marshmallow … Dark chocolate, wrapped in a satiny copha/beeswax candle-like coating. Supple oak nuances - dexterously integrated, no doubt compliments of barrel ferment (and our valued long-time Barossa cooper). The texture: Mouthfeel is creamy/velvety, rather than blocky/chunky at this youthful stage in bottle. Tannins are tight, creating a dense coating, with a ‘rusty’ edge. Ebullient acidity, whilst lively and racy, is well-managed and protective. To borrow a recently read descriptor – “cherry stone minerality” … The impression: Swamped by a Barossa ferrous dustiness … regionally captured so persuasively with this 2017 vintage. Demands air.